It's a high quality unit, that you can use for multiple applications for many years, not one of the cheap units that you can only use once because it blew up. The series II was built to expand on the ranges of motors that customers typically tend to use, and we didn't just go a little overboard, we went WAY overboard.



We found lots of people want to drive dual motors or even more per controller, but the previous unit wasn't really designed for this, so it was time to go back to the drawing board and come up with something fresh and new. We also found that some motors had much larger spiking than we'd previously encountered on all the motors we tested.
 
Features:

For help with the ordering options or instructions on how to install and use the controller, please scroll down to the bottom of this page!

12V-48V Input Voltage (Battery Bank) 12V-55V (Regulated Power Supply)
  • Simple to setup and use!
  •  0-100% Speed Regulation!
  •  Constant torque with Pulse Width Modulation (PWM)
  •  High Quality Industrial Design
  •  Efficient High Voltage Regulator
  •  On/Off Switch (Built in!)
  •  3 Soft start settings (Off, Slow, Slower) ramps up to the desired speed once the controller is switched on, and unlike cheap controllers every time you switch it off and on (using the switch) it will ramp up to speed again!
  •  Max Current up to 100A* (Short duration Bursts up to 50A for the 25A model or 80A for the 50A model)
  • 50A continuous duty
  •  2 Oz Double Sided PCB
  •  High Speed Mosfet driver averaging 1.6uS opening/closing times
  •  High Current 180A Mosfets with worlds lowest RDS On in TO-220!
  •  Low Battery Voltage cut-out (for 12V, 24V and 36V)
  •  Adjustable Frequency From 300Hz to 1.5Khz
  •  Can work with Hall Effect Throttles (Model Dependent)
  •  Over voltage Protected, ESD Protected!
  •  Filtering, Clamping & Snubber Protection Included
  •  Adjustable Start Positioning for Hall effect and Potentiometer setups
  •  8 Way Terminal Block For simple connections
  •  External connectors for Hall Effect or Potentiometer, so you can make your own cable lengths up to 5m!
  •  Passive cooling! No fan!
  •  Highly Configurable!
  • Potentiometer, Hall effect throttle or Hall Effect Foot throttle options!
  • Suitable for use with power supplies (Doesn't feed excess power back into the source)
  •  

    We shouldn't even have to say this but Please be AWARE of the current your motor draws.  We've seen (and even sell) some motors that can be overdriven. To give an example, a motor may be rated at 450W at 24V which should use about 24A, but when you power it up and have the current available for the motor to use the power can go as high as 1000w at 150A! (ALSO BE AWARE OF YOUR MOTOR STARTUP CURRENTS!)
    High Power Design!
    Simply, one of the best value units available on the market in its price range! Has features found only on controllers 2-3 times more expensive!


    Setting up and Using your new controller!
    The controller should be setup when you receive it for whatever configuration you ordered, but if you want to play with it, here are the options. The Potentiometer supplied with thus controller is a 10K  Linear Potentiometer. If you don't have the hall effect model, then J1 and J3 will not be available to you. The connections are straight forward: Connect your Battery Positive, Negative and hook up your motor. Control: Hall Effect or Potentiometer (J1) If you have a hall effect model, you will need to set the jumper on J1 to pins 1 and 2. If you have a potentiometer, you will need to set J1 to pins 2 and 3 This selects which control method you can use. You can select to use either one, but you cannot use both at the same time. If you wanted to be technical and use both, then you could put a switch to select between one or the other. A DPST switch will be ideal for this (ON/ON) Soft Start Settings (J2) For a slow soft start connect the jumper J2 to pins 1 and 2 For a slower soft start connect the jumper J2 to pins 3-4 To turn soft start off, remove this jumper completely. (default on J2 is pins 1 and 2) Again, If you wanted to be technical and use both, then you could put a switch to select between one or the other. A DP3T switch will be ideal for this (ON-OFF-ON). Hall Effect Setting (J3) This jumper is setup for the Hall Effect foot throttle (J3-2 to J3-1). It has a different voltage than a standard hall effect throttle and if you try and use it on a standard hall effect connector you will soon work out that while it works, you can never get full speed. Most hall effect throttles on the market will nee the jumper between the center pin and the H side of the jumper (J3-2 to J3-3) If you are using a standard Hall Effect throttle, select J3 jumper positions J3-2 to J3-3. If you are using a foot throttle, select J3 jumper positions J3-2 to J3-1 As a rule of thumb, if you need to extend the wiring to reach your motor, always try and increase the motor wires rather than the battery wires. Keep the battery positive and negative wires as short and as close together as possible. Over any length of wire to the motor, twist the wires to reduce the inductance. If you find a motor is sluggish to start and stop or slow to respond put a capacitor (0.1uf 250V-450V) straight across the motor terminals. This will help reduce the spikes from the motor.
    P1 - this trim pot will adjust the Hall Effect Throttle Start Position. P2 - This is the Start position adjustment for the Potentiometer. P3 - This is the Low voltage cutout. This is suitable for protecting expensive lithium batteries from being drained too much, To set this up, run the battery down to the point where you feel it is at its lowest you are prepared to go, then adjust the trimpot anti-clockwise until the controller output shuts down. Now in the future when your battery reaches this point the controller will automatically shut down. P4- This is tour frequency adjust. The controller has a maximum frequency of 1.5kHZ, adjust this in either direction while the motor is running at a low RPM to the point where the motor is making the least amount of additional noise (i.e. squealing). (TECHNICAL) If you are technically proficient, you can replace component C9 (a 100nf capacitor) to a different value to change the frequency range of the device. Lower values equal higher frequencies.
    Power Switch - While there are 3 connections to the board, only 2 of the three are used. On the external power switch, the connection closest to the PCB's edge is not used. On the internal power switch, the connector closest to the terminal block side is not used.
    The controller is quite simple to use and setup. Enjoy! speed_control_pcb6-2_400  
    Ok, some things about the ordering process! 

    Model Type;
    Potentiometer Only:
    Select this is you only ever plan to use a potentiometer. This means the unit will never work with fall effect controllers.
    Hall Effect & Potentiometer: If you want to have the option to use one or the other then this is the selection you want. If you plan to use any of the following hall effect devices, "foot throttle, thumb throttle or twist grip throttle". If you have selected "Internal" model, you cannot have a hall effect model.
    Current Capacity;
    Select your current requirements here. Always choose larger than you need!

    Control Options;
    If you wish to purchase a controller from us, we have assorted styles available including twist grip throttles, thumb throttles or foot throttles or the humble Potentiometer!